Evo malko da krademo od drugih
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KO zna dobro engleski moze i da prevee
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Begin by lowering the door window glass completely.
There are two black Torx T25 screws at the bottom of the door - remove them. (illustration)
Use a thin-bladed flathead screwdriver to pry off the inner door handle cover (not the door release handle). (illustration)
For the driver side door, you can now pull up on the entire handle/switch assembly as a unit - use moderate force to unclasp the clips holding it in place. Remove the brown wire harness from the handle/switch assembly and set the assembly aside.
For the drivers side door, there are three bronze color screws anchoring the door trim panel to the rest of the door. The passenger's side door has two of these screws. Use a large philips-head screwdriver to remove these. (illustration)
The rest of the door trim panel is now held in place by snap-in anchors and can be loosened by pulling the trim panel away from the door. Begin with the bottom of the door and give it a good tug to pop out the connectors. Take care not to pull the trim panel far away from the door, as there are several wire/cable connections still in place between the trim panel and door. After the lower portion of the trim panel is separated, pull the entire panel upward to unhinge the panel from the window sill. The trim panel should now be free from the door, with several wires and cables still in place. (illustration)
Disconnect the following from the trim panel: (illustration)
Wire harness plugged into the door release handle.
Door release cable. To remove this, pull the cable insulation away from the hooked end and slide the exposed cable out of the slitted retainer. Release the hooked end.
Security alarm LED wire connector.
Bottom door sill lamp - it's easier to pull out the entire wire harness + lamp assembly than to disconnect the wire harness.
Pull the door trim panel away and set aside.
Next, window glass removal:
Remove the two large, circular rubber inserts from the metal door panel. If you pry with a screwdriver, take care not to damage the mating surfaces. (illustration)
Reconnect the handle/switch assembly to the brown wire harness to allow window control. With the key in the On position (no need to start the engine), roll up the window until the window clamp screws are accessible through the circular cutouts.
Use a 10mm socket to loosen the clamps holding the window glass in place - it will only take a few turns to loosen the clamps, no need to remove the screws entirely.
Roll the window down until a third of the window glass is left visible in the window frame.
Disconnect the handle/switch assembly.
Remove the window glass. Reach over the top of the door and pull the window glass upwards (towards yourself). As you raise the window glass, angle it towards the hinge side of the door to allow the window glass to clear the window slot. Set the window glass aside.
Unhooking the lock mechanism:
On the end side of the door, pry off the black plastic cap above the lock mechanism screws. This cap covers the access hole for the lock set screw. (illustration)
Use a Torx T20 driver to unscrew the set screw. Unscrew it as far as it will go, then reinsert a few threads to keep the screw from falling out of its mounting.
Pull on the exterior door handle - with the door handle in this position, pull on the lock cylinder. It should slide out without much trouble. Set the lock cylinder aside. (illustration)
There is a cable hooked into the side of the exterior door handle. The cable can be positioned at various points along the handle. Note the current position of the cable and release it from the handle. (illustration)
Use the M8 12 point star driver to remove the two screws in the door side. On my car, these screws were loose and allowed the lock mechanism to move around, causing solder joint stress - keep reading... (illustration)
Removing the metal panel:
Disconnect the various wire harnesses on the metal door panel - don't worry about what goes where - each connector can only fit in one and only one place. Also use a flathead screwdriver to unclip the various snaps holding the wiring to the panel.
Use the 10mm socket to unscrew the ten hex bolts securing the metal panel to the door frame. (illustration)
Pull the panel away from the door frame starting at the edges - if you haven't removed the panel before, the gasket may require a bit of force to pry it away from the frame. Carefully maneuver the entire panel around until the panel is free of the door frame with the lock mechanism and associated wiring attached. (illustration)
Remove the wire harness from the lock mechanism and remove it from the metal panel - this will allow you to completely separate the metal panel from the door. (illustration)
Removing the lock mechanism:
The lock mechanism is held in place on the metal panel by a plastic bracket with two cylindrical pins keeping the bracket in place. Use a blunt tool to push the pins out from the rear of the panel. My Passat had managed to work the pins loose and dropped them into the door frame, where they've likely lain for months. The bracket had then worked loose of the panel and the entire lock mechanism was free to jostle around in the door. The wiring harness, still being pinned in place, then stressed the electrical connectors internal to the lock mechanism and cracked a solder joint.
Unhook the door lock pin rod from the lock mechanism. (illustration)
Remove the interior door release handle cable. Start by popping the harness out of the mount on the locking mechanism, then unhook the cable.
Separate the locking mechanism from the panel. (illustration)
